Sylvia Plath: Lemon Pudding Cakes

Is it taboo to write about baking and Sylvia Plath? When I told a friend what I was cooking this week, his face froze in a half-smile. “Oh, um, ha! But really, what are you making?” Another awkward reaction: “Well … be careful?”

I still feel like I’m tiptoeing around the elephant in the room every time I mention an oven. But, as for many a 1950s-era wife and mother, cooking and baking were large parts of Plath’s daily life, and not unwelcome ones. “How I love to cook!” she wrote in her journals – and apparently she was no slouch either. Ted Hughes praised his wife’s cooking in his letters: “Sylvia by the way is becoming the most superlative cook I’ve encountered.” To him, she was “a princess of cooks.”

We tend to think of cooking, and particularly baking, as a soothing, cathartic experience. But, as anyone who has put together a dinner party (much less run an actual bakery) can attest, it can lead to some very un-soothing thoughts. Did I beat the eggs enough? Shouldn’t it be rising more? What if I didn’t grease the ramekins enough and half of the cake sticks and then it breaks in half and the whole thing is ruined and then what will I do? THEN WHAT?

Plath seemed to have a similar dual reaction to her time in the kitchen; it was both a blessed release and a warning sign, a suffocating dead end. In 1957, after a day spent baking a pie, Plath worriedly wrote in her journal, “You will escape into domesticity & stifle yourself by falling headfirst into a bowl of cookie batter.” It’s an uncomfortable moment, a hint of things to come.

* * *

Sylvia Plath Lemon Pudding Cake

Plath was a famous devotee of The Joy of Cooking, using it as her culinary lifeline to the Americas while she was living abroad. According to Kate Moses in the Guardian, she wrote “Lady Lazarus” while baking the cookbook’s lemon pudding cake – a seemingly improbable combination of dark themes and bright flavors that I’ve come to see as quintessential Plath.

This recipe is nearly identical to the 1950s Joy of Cooking and Fannie Farmer recipes, but with buttermilk rather than regular milk for a little more tang and a little less fat. You can try it either way, depending on what you have at hand. It’s a cake that’s worth feeling a bit domestic for.

(Adapted from The Craft of Baking)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2/3 cup granulated sugar, plus more for ramekins
1/4 cup flour
Zest of 1 lemon
1 cup reduced-fat buttermilk
1/4 cup lemon juice
3 egg yolks
4 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon salt
Powdered sugar and fresh berries, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 6 6-ounce ramekins, lightly dust with granulated sugar, and set them in a small roasting pan.

2. In a medium bowl, combine remaining 2/3 cup granulated sugar, the flour and lemon zest. In a larger bowl, whisk together buttermilk, lemon juice, and egg yolks. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and whisk until combined.

3. In a small bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer, beat egg whites with salt until soft peaks form. Gently fold into lemon mixture. Divide batter evenly among ramekins and fill roasting pan with hot water until it reaches halfway up ramekins. Tent with foil.

4. Bake 20 minutes. Remove foil, then bake another 20 minutes or until cakes are golden and firm to the touch. Transfer ramekins to a rack and let cool 15 minutes. Run a sharp knife around the edges and invert onto plates. Garnish with powdered sugar and berries.


191 thoughts on “Sylvia Plath: Lemon Pudding Cakes

  1. Quinn

    “Is it taboo to write about baking and Sylvia Plath?”

    Why would it be?

    “Well … be careful?”

    Sorry, this is going right over my head. What is your friend’s concern here?

    I love the recipe and your post in general, but the set-up? I just don’t get it.

    1. Ah, I told you I tiptoe around it – too much so! – because it’s grim. Sylvia Plath infamously killed herself by sticking her head in the oven, so when I talk about Plath and baking, that’s often peoples’ first association … not delicious desserts. Hence the confused (and slightly disturbed) reactions.

      1. Quinn

        I guess I should have been clearer…I know about Plath’s suicide, but that’s not the first thing I think of when her name comes up; I think of her writing. Of course now I will also think of your recipe 🙂
        The idea that there would be a taboo as your friend suggests seems a bit contrived to me. Just my opinion, but since you phrased it as a question…

      2. Ah, gotcha. I’m glad for that – since her recipes are too good not to share. Although Plath’s other favorite, tomato soup cake, is a combination that takes a little more guts, I think …

    1. Playwright D.K. Polanco’s character, HARVARD, responds to two thugs inquiry, of his reading: “The Sylvia Plath cookbook – baking guide.” [circa 1999] “Fireworks!” This irreverent line has already been crossed, with a tongue in cheek manner.

      1. amycrea

        There was a woman in upstate New York who used to have an annual event every February (anniversary of Plath’s death): the Sylvia Plath Poetry Reading and Bake-Off. She did it a few years, then–hilariously–got a Cease and Desist from Pillsbury.

      2. That is incredible! Although (I was inspired to look this up) it seems like Pillsbury filed a claim that they owned the term “bake-off”? I don’t know which is more ridiculous.

      3. amycrea

        I got to interview the woman who used to hold the Bake-Off. While tongue was planted firmly in cheek, she also wanted to “de-pedestalize” the act of suicide by poets and turn the attention back to the poems. She said if she hadn’t chosen Plath, she would have done the Anne Sexton 500 or the John Berryman bungee jump.

    1. Ms Tracy,
      in all truth poor Sylvia didn’t bake at all.
      It was the gas that took her from us. So, knowing this
      it’s time to let the elephant roam to another room.
      Maybe you have opened the door?


      1. Another strange thing, the day after I read this I went to lunch with my auntie. She told me in passing that her partner, Mary Montague was once approached by Frieda Hughes, Sylvia Plath’s daughter at Mary’s poetry reading and told she had talent, and if she ever wanted to contact her she could. She never did 😦 x

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  4. bernaarslan

    Hi, I’m planning to bake this today. Can you please tell me how many ramekins are used in this recipe? I think I will need to double the amount of ingredients. Thank you very much.

      1. bernaarslan

        One more question! I baked it and it looks really delicious. But I’m planning to serve them tomorrow. They can be kept in the fridge right? Can they be served cold? Thank you.

      2. Yes, they can be stored in the fridge with some plastic wrap and are just as good cold the next day. I made all six and ate two every day … but I don’t advise it 🙂

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