Is it taboo to write about baking and Sylvia Plath? When I told a friend what I was cooking this week, his face froze in a half-smile. “Oh, um, ha! But really, what are you making?” Another awkward reaction: “Well … be careful?”
I still feel like I’m tiptoeing around the elephant in the room every time I mention an oven. But, as for many a 1950s-era wife and mother, cooking and baking were large parts of Plath’s daily life, and not unwelcome ones. “How I love to cook!” she wrote in her journals – and apparently she was no slouch either. Ted Hughes praised his wife’s cooking in his letters: “Sylvia by the way is becoming the most superlative cook I’ve encountered.” To him, she was “a princess of cooks.”
We tend to think of cooking, and particularly baking, as a soothing, cathartic experience. But, as anyone who has put together a dinner party (much less run an actual bakery) can attest, it can lead to some very un-soothing thoughts. Did I beat the eggs enough? Shouldn’t it be rising more? What if I didn’t grease the ramekins enough and half of the cake sticks and then it breaks in half and the whole thing is ruined and then what will I do? THEN WHAT?
Plath seemed to have a similar dual reaction to her time in the kitchen; it was both a blessed release and a warning sign, a suffocating dead end. In 1957, after a day spent baking a pie, Plath worriedly wrote in her journal, “You will escape into domesticity & stifle yourself by falling headfirst into a bowl of cookie batter.” It’s an uncomfortable moment, a hint of things to come.
* * *
Plath was a famous devotee of The Joy of Cooking, using it as her culinary lifeline to the Americas while she was living abroad. According to Kate Moses in the Guardian, she wrote “Lady Lazarus” while baking the cookbook’s lemon pudding cake – a seemingly improbable combination of dark themes and bright flavors that I’ve come to see as quintessential Plath.
This recipe is nearly identical to the 1950s Joy of Cooking and Fannie Farmer recipes, but with buttermilk rather than regular milk for a little more tang and a little less fat. You can try it either way, depending on what you have at hand. It’s a cake that’s worth feeling a bit domestic for.
(Adapted from The Craft of Baking)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2/3 cup granulated sugar, plus more for ramekins
1/4 cup flour
Zest of 1 lemon
1 cup reduced-fat buttermilk
1/4 cup lemon juice
3 egg yolks
4 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon salt
Powdered sugar and fresh berries, for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 6 6-ounce ramekins, lightly dust with granulated sugar, and set them in a small roasting pan.
2. In a medium bowl, combine remaining 2/3 cup granulated sugar, the flour and lemon zest. In a larger bowl, whisk together buttermilk, lemon juice, and egg yolks. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and whisk until combined.
3. In a small bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer, beat egg whites with salt until soft peaks form. Gently fold into lemon mixture. Divide batter evenly among ramekins and fill roasting pan with hot water until it reaches halfway up ramekins. Tent with foil.
4. Bake 20 minutes. Remove foil, then bake another 20 minutes or until cakes are golden and firm to the touch. Transfer ramekins to a rack and let cool 15 minutes. Run a sharp knife around the edges and invert onto plates. Garnish with powdered sugar and berries.
Paper and Salt 
Plath was very interested in cooking, as you note. But her husband’s name was Ted, not Tim. 😉
Agh, it’s bizarre the things that come from of quickly-typing fingers! I don’t know where my mind came up with that one. Thanks for the catch.
heh-heh … Freudian slip perhaps? I do it all the time …
Lovely! This cake sounds delicious. 🙂
Thank you! It’s definitely one for the books (no pun intended).
Hmmm, I needed a lemon dessert for when a chef friend is coming to dinner….so will test these out first! Thanks!
It’s a great recipe for guests – everything’s already portioned, and deceptively simple (but you don’t have to tell them that). Hope it goes well!
No corrections- just appreciation. Great post! May have to try this one.
Aw, thank you (although you are all my best editors!). Please do let me know if you try it out. It’s one of my favorites so far.
“Is it taboo to write about baking and Sylvia Plath?”
Why would it be?
“Well … be careful?”
Sorry, this is going right over my head. What is your friend’s concern here?
I love the recipe and your post in general, but the set-up? I just don’t get it.
Ah, I told you I tiptoe around it – too much so! – because it’s grim. Sylvia Plath infamously killed herself by sticking her head in the oven, so when I talk about Plath and baking, that’s often peoples’ first association … not delicious desserts. Hence the confused (and slightly disturbed) reactions.
I guess I should have been clearer…I know about Plath’s suicide, but that’s not the first thing I think of when her name comes up; I think of her writing. Of course now I will also think of your recipe 🙂
The idea that there would be a taboo as your friend suggests seems a bit contrived to me. Just my opinion, but since you phrased it as a question…
Ah, gotcha. I’m glad for that – since her recipes are too good not to share. Although Plath’s other favorite, tomato soup cake, is a combination that takes a little more guts, I think …
Sylvia Plath bakes,
Emily Dickinson bakes.
Baking words to please.
Playwright D.K. Polanco’s character, HARVARD, responds to two thugs inquiry, of his reading: “The Sylvia Plath cookbook – baking guide.” [circa 1999] “Fireworks!” This irreverent line has already been crossed, with a tongue in cheek manner.
There was a woman in upstate New York who used to have an annual event every February (anniversary of Plath’s death): the Sylvia Plath Poetry Reading and Bake-Off. She did it a few years, then–hilariously–got a Cease and Desist from Pillsbury.
That is incredible! Although (I was inspired to look this up) it seems like Pillsbury filed a claim that they owned the term “bake-off”? I don’t know which is more ridiculous.
Ms Brentworth,
thank you for your comment. I am referring to S, Plath’s cooking of cakes as per the article and not her sad demise.
peter.
I got to interview the woman who used to hold the Bake-Off. While tongue was planted firmly in cheek, she also wanted to “de-pedestalize” the act of suicide by poets and turn the attention back to the poems. She said if she hadn’t chosen Plath, she would have done the Anne Sexton 500 or the John Berryman bungee jump.
Ms Amy,
a cease and desist from Pillsbury! There is no greater complement.
peter.
Love lemon! This sounds divine!
Ms Tracy,
in all truth poor Sylvia didn’t bake at all.
It was the gas that took her from us. So, knowing this
it’s time to let the elephant roam to another room.
Maybe you have opened the door?
peter.
I have been looking out for a lemon cake to make… it is my blog’s namesake after all 🙂 Oh I love the idea for your blog! I love reading about food but rarely try to cook/bake anything.
Lemon cake and writing…. perfect.
Thanks, Fiona! Lemon cakes are great blog inspirations, especially as a spot of sunshine on rainy days like we’re having here. Hope you enjoy it!
Another strange thing, the day after I read this I went to lunch with my auntie. She told me in passing that her partner, Mary Montague was once approached by Frieda Hughes, Sylvia Plath’s daughter at Mary’s poetry reading and told she had talent, and if she ever wanted to contact her she could. She never did 😦 x
Oh, wow! Makes you wonder what could have been … but sometimes having a good story is reward enough.
I just stumbled upon your blog today and it’s wonderful — I take the same approach with my blog but with poetry, so we certainly share the same passions. Looking forward to following along!
You have a new reader – your blog is just gorgeous. Following on RSS and Twitter now. Glad you found me!
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Hi, I’m planning to bake this today. Can you please tell me how many ramekins are used in this recipe? I think I will need to double the amount of ingredients. Thank you very much.
Yes – it makes 6 (I’ll go include that now). Happy baking, and please do let me know how you liked them!
One more question! I baked it and it looks really delicious. But I’m planning to serve them tomorrow. They can be kept in the fridge right? Can they be served cold? Thank you.
Yes, they can be stored in the fridge with some plastic wrap and are just as good cold the next day. I made all six and ate two every day … but I don’t advise it 🙂
I really liked its taste! Thanks..
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Love your site. Have you seen yummy-books.com? Ive been reading her site the last couple years, she’s been doing something similar. I smell a collaboration!
Thanks, Hank! I love yummybooks too – I found it shortly after starting Paper and Salt, and am so glad that books and food are getting the treatment they deserve. It would be fantastic to do something together. A whole literary menu, maybe!
Taboo? Well, I did it!
http://compsandcroissants.com/2010/05/26/sylvia-plath-virginia-woolf-and-me/
Those macarons look delicious! And you mention another recipe I have coming up … Can’t write about Plath without thinking about Woolf!
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Great post, love Sylvia Plath and lemon cakes 🙂
Thank you – hope you try them. They’re one of my favorites (and really simple too).
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